Ice & mixed

Frozen falls and blue ice, graded WI2 to WI6.

The medium

Ice and mixed climbing is the alpine discipline that changes most from day to day — the same fall can be a staircase on Tuesday and a glass wall by Friday.

The grades

WI2    low angle, one tool is plenty
WI3    sustained 70°, good screws
WI4    near-vertical, committing
WI5    vertical and thin, sustained
WI6    overhanging or unprotectable

The kit

Two technical tools, 12–16 screws, and a head for the sound ice makes when it settles. Always climb with a partner who has led ice before.