Acclimatization

Climb high, sleep low

Altitude doesn't care how fit you are at sea level. Acclimatization is the slow, boring process that lets your body make more red blood cells — and it can't be rushed.

The schedule

day 1–2    rest at 3,000 m
day 3–4    climb to 4,000 m, sleep 3,300 m
day 5–6    climb to 4,500 m, sleep 3,800 m
summit     push, then descend fast

The rule

Headache, nausea, or stumbling? Descend. HAPE and HACE don't give second chances, and the mountain will still be there next year.